I agree totally on checking, checking again, and re-checking. I'm that way myself. I always feel there is something else I should check, even when I am about to turn the key. It's definitely tough to be a perfectionist. Especially one with a lot invested in a project like this.

Thanks for the update.

Finally got all the fussing over the block done and washed it and got the crank in. As usual I was totally stressing over the rear main seal and trying to prevent oil leaks.

Again, since I hate oil leaks I made manifold end spacers so I can just use a little silicone and have really good squeezage.

other one.....hope the distributor fits!

Back of the crank takes a 1-1/2" freeze plug with a snap ring to seal the big hole.

gun drill is 1-1/4"

Damm Sure looks good

Great Job on the end rail spacers. They're perfect!

Another nice thing when you buy custom Rods is even though we are using a Small Block Chevy 2.00" rod journal, they ended up offsetting the beam so that the small end is centered in the piston. You would take the cylinder block/bore offset and divide by 2 and then the beam center needs to be that far from the non chamfered edge of the rod.

The radius on the front of the crank would not let the lower timing chain gear go all the way on. I am glad I found this and so I put a larger chamfer on the gear with my Dremmel.

Well, I thought I would post an update since it's been a while. I was happy to post 2 days ago that I had a "shortblock". Because I finished meticulously installing all 8 pistons and rods. It takes me a while to do all the checking and lubing, torqueing of the rod bolts etc.

But I ran into a problem. Ryan never caught it, and I do not expect him to, and I did not catch it. Both of us mocked up before final assembly and checked deck height at ZERO right where we wanted.

BUT, after final assembly the rings are all on and rod bolts tightened to final torque etc. and when I was checking the deck height I was getting really goofy readings. They were literally all over the place?? So after refining my measuring and writing the findings on the top of the pistons a PATTERN evolved and became apparent. Every piston on the odd side was +.007 at the front (towards the front of the block right above the wrist pin CL) and -.007 at the back. On the other side of the motor every piston was the exact opposite. So after a teardown and more measuring I have discovered that these high dollar rods were machined with the wrist pin bore crooked. A reality I had to face and so the rods all have to come out and be sent back. A huge amount of tedious work and no telling how long to get them back. A HUGE pain and loss of my time.

No amount of stressing or crying will fix this. I considered running it like that but in the end I know it is not right. Only hard work and time will fix it. As well as a little more money for shipping, misc etc.

Hey! Where'd that piston go? Way down there with 4.5" stroke.

It was together. But no more..........

one more

that sucks but glad you caught it. I think they should be paying the shipping charge and the labor involved....

It`s your attention to detail and skills that make your cars look and run the way they do. Sorry to hear this but I`d do the same thing and get it perfect. Can`t wait to hear the track results w/that beast.

Wow, good catch!
Bill

Well, I am finishing taking the motor apart today.

So, what is wrong with this picture?? And NO, it is not trick photography.

Makes me mad as a hornet. I paid $2500 for these rods and this is what I get. The length is varied by .0025" and I have only measured 4 so far. I think something like .0005 would be more like it. Maybe I am wrong.